Bodegas Bernabeleva, Navaherreros Garnacha de Bernabeleva, DO Madrid, Spain, 2017
In the centre of Spain, a stone’s throw west of Madrid, is Bodegas Bernabeleva.
At the feet of the Cerro de Guisando and Gredos mountains this winery lets its vines stretch out their roots through the thin infertile sandy soils, formed from decomposed granite, to cling on to life. Four generations have tended these old hardy vines that have repaid the care and attention with quality fruit hand harvested from the organically managed vineyards. Plots of Garnacha, Albillo and Moscatel de Grano Menudo are vinified separately, neither fined nor filtered to ensure that both the land and love shown shine through.
This is a red wine made from grenache grapes chosen from every vineyard in the estate. Through the varying types of soils, orientations and microclimates, it showcases the whole of the San Martin de Valdeiglesias' terroir. The ages of the vines range from 40 to 80 and planting densities from 1,900 to 2,200 vines per hectare.
Vineyards are manually harvested. Vinification is minimal intervention and takes place in wood, stainless steel or concrete tanks, depending on the features of the grapes, for each site is vinified and aged separately. All of the must if fermented with wild yeasts and macerates for 5 to 7 weeks, then aged in old oak for 1 year. Unfined and unfiltered.
% wine oaked: 100
% new oak: None
Wild sweet berry fruit dominate the nose, with hints of spice, herb, graphite and salinity. A silky smooth entry leads on to full bodied flavours of sweet cherry, raspberry and nutmeg. Despite the big flavours this is still lovely and fresh, with a long finish and fine tannins.
Try this with grilled Turbot!
Jancis Robinson 16.5 Points
Quite gamey and interesting on the nose. Really quite fine and delicate. Very appetising. Maybe not for long ageing but great fun. 16.5 Points, JR, March 2020.
6 x 75cl
Sierra de Gredos, Spain