Celler del Roure, Safrà, DO Valencia, Spain, 2020
Celler del Roure have become the pioneer of quality wine in Valencia.
Owner Pablo Calatayud is committed to nurturing and championing the indigenous varieties of the region, most notably the Mando and Verdil grapes, both of which have been on the edge of extinction.
Pablo has realised that these indigenous grapes are worth saving and, treated properly, can create wines of wonderful quality, freshness and concentration. Paying meticulous care in the vineyard and winery reduces the need for sulphur additions meaning his wines are verging on "natural".
Safrà is another wine in the project based on the traditions of the Alforins area. Produced mainly from the native grape of Mandó with grapes like Garnacha Tintorera or Arcos making up the rest of the blend. Unlike the other reds matured in earthen jars, the Mandó was harvested before it is fully mature and vinified in the old part of the winery in inox containers using indenous yeasts, with a third of the grapes being whole bunches. After fermentation, the wine rests for six months in the earthenware jars from the old Bodega Fonda.
No oak ageing
This wine is fluid...with more akin to a white wine and more alive, with fresh and bright fruit aromas and a pleasant balsamic sensation.
Best with mediterranean dishes.
Decanter 95 Points
The fruit for Safrà is grown biodynamically at 600m on sandy soils in Finca Els Corrals, mainly from 20- to 40-year-old Mandó vines harvested before fully mature, with about 15% of Garnacha Tintorera in the blend. Produced by owner Pablo Calatayud and winemaker Javier Revert, the wine was vinified in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts, with one third of the fruit in whole bunches. This was followed by six months’ maturation in earthenware jars. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Earthy, winey aromas – a clear expression of the variety. Refreshing notes of dark plum and cherry, with light citrus. Long, intense finish. An original. Christine Allen: Redcurrant, fresh cherry and high-tone florals on the nose. Lingering spiced fruit and a floral finish. A stunning example of what Valencia can do. Beth Willard: Enticing chalky, creamy milk chocolate and raspberry aromas. Pretty floral character, with rose petal, sweet fruit and ripe tannins. Very fresh and drinkable. 95 Points, Indigenous Reds Panel Tasting, August 2022.
Garnacha Tintorera 15%
6 x 75cl