San Polino, Brunello Di Montalcino, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy, 2017
There is a small 'nirvana' northwest of Montalcino, where Luigi Fabbro and Katia Nuassbaum founded San Polino nearly 30 years ago.
Using Luigi's scientific experience of mapping the Amazon rainforest they decided to try their hands at "creating wines as complete reflections of the biodiversity of their terroir" Katia explains. This tiny estate of only 4 hectares now produces luscious and balanced wines farmed bio-dynamically by this energetic couple who, it is clear, pour all their heart and energies into these sublime wines. Praised by critics and peers they have been described as having "an incredible clarity and pureness of fruit that is unequalled in the region".
Vineyards are to the north-east of Montalcino at 300m altitude where a meandering stream runs through it attracting much wildlife. Worked by hand, organically and biodynamically, the canopy is well-managed to produce healthy, juicy, thick-skinned grapes.
Harvested early in October, there is a cold 3-day maceration, followed by a spontaneous fermentation on native yeasts in 35hl tronic oak barrels, 45 day maceration in total then the skins are pressed, followed by 1 month spontaneous malolactic fermentation. 20 days lees ageing. To finish the wine it spends 5 years ageing in large oak casks before bottling by hand in the winery.
Type: Slovakian and French 25hl - 38 hl
% wine oaked: 100
% new oak: 5
This wine is a happy wine; fruity and succulent, with soft tannins and a zestful acidity. The fact that is comes from a hot vintage is not felt in the wine, instead the feeling is of lush fullness. On the nose you find blackberry, blackcurrant and loamy soil, the mouth gives a long, smooth finish.
Roasted or grilled vegatables, meat, mushrooms and legumes, full-bodied cheeses.
James Suckling 94 Points
Brunello that shows the ripeness of the vintage. At the same time the rich plum and cherry character is buttressed with bright acidity and dusty tannins. It’s chewy yet polished. Fresh at the end. Drink in 2023 and onwards. From organically grown grapes. 94 Points, JS, Nov 2021.
6 x 75cl