Domaine Alary, Cairanne Blanc, L'Estévenas, Southern Rhône, France, 2023

Producer Profile

Denis Alary’s wines are benchmark Southern Rhônes: full of sun and a joy to drink.

Spicy, rich and peppery with warm juicy fruit, his wines are always extremely appealing and a great representation of this region. While Grenache makes up the majority of the vines planted on his 29 hectares of vineyards, he has an old plot of Syrah and uses it judiciously in the cuvée ‘L’Estévenas’. Despite increasing fame and demand, these wines remain great value. Wine passionate, Jean-Etienne, Denis’s son, has naturally integrated at the estate since 2016, after a journey in Australia and in New-Zealand. Together, they ensure the management, marketing, including sales directly from the cellar, vinification and viticulture. Driven by Jean-Etienne, they are all now moving towards biodynamics.

Viticulture

The vineyards for L’Estavenas are situated in Cairanne, one of the southern Rhône Valley’s rising appellations known for its dynamic white wines. The terroir consists of clay and limestone soils, particularly beneficial for white varieties due to their ability to retain moisture and impart minerality. The vineyards are located on south-facing slopes, allowing full sun exposure while cooler nighttime temperatures help preserve acidity. Denis Alary is deeply committed to sustainable and organic viticulture. The vines—some of which are older, potentially ungrafted—are tended with minimal intervention, harvested by hand, and kept to low yields to enhance concentration and expression.

Winemaking

The winemaking process for this cuvée emphasises purity and texture. Pressed as whole clusters to extract juice gently and minimise phenolic bitterness. The must is then settled naturally before fermentation, which takes place in a combination of stainless steel and neutral French oak barrels. Each variety is fermented separately. This dual approach allows the preservation of bright, varietal fruit character while adding subtle depth and roundness. Malolactic fermentation is either blocked or only partially carried out to maintain the wine’s lively acidity. The wine is aged on its fine lees for six to twelve months, with occasional bâtonnage (lees stirring) to enhance mouthfeel. Minimal filtration is used at bottling to preserve the wine’s integrity.

Tasting Note

In the glass, it appears a pale straw yellow with subtle green reflections, suggesting youth and freshness. The nose opens with a delicate bouquet of white flowers such as acacia and honeysuckle, followed by ripe stone fruits like white peach and pear. There’s a lively citrus thread—lemon zest and green apple—complemented by nuances of wet stone, light honey, and a faint herbal tone reminiscent of thyme or southern garrigue. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and vibrant, with a silky mouthfeel that carries flavours of ripe orchard fruit, bright citrus, and a subtle creaminess from well-integrated oak. The wine finishes long and mineral, with a crisp acidity that leaves a refreshing impression.

Food Matching

Mild goat or sheep cheeses, such as Crottin de Chavignol or Brebis, courgette tart or asparagus cream pasta.