MA'D Moser MM555 Tokaji Azsú, 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary [208G/L RS] (50cl.), 2013

Producer Profile

Robert Mondavi said ‘a vision always comes first’....

In 2022, it was just such a vision that led to a collaboration between Lenz Moser, Rita Takaro, Karoly Kovas (owner of the famed Ma’d Wines) and winemaker Gabor Urban to re-invent dry Furmint from Tokaj under the Mád Moser project. Their goal was to bring an exciting new interpretation of dry Furmint from one of the great, yet forgotten, wine regions to the world’s attention. Tokaj’s importance dates back to the early 16th century, when its wines became a status symbol among the aristocracy of Europe. All this was forgotten during the Communist era, when the vineyards were nationalized and tasked with producing cheap wine in bulk, but was rediscovered in the 1990s, when foreign investment poured in and local winemakers once again focused on making quality wines. Those from Mád Moser display great freshness, complexity and structure combined with the unique individual character of Hungary’s most famous grape. Slowly but surely, they are helping the country to regain its place among the world’s great wine-producing nations.

Viticulture

This very special release has been selected by the partners MA'D Moser and Grand Tokaj – convinced that from now on (and for the next 100 years) this wine will excite botrytised sweet wine aficionados around the world – this wine is all about love, pleasure, conviviality, yet also for contemplative moments. A special appreciation goes to the unique winemaker Karoly Ats, who created this wine in his first year at Grand Tokaj. The harvest comes from the vineyards of Grand Tokaj, Szarvas, Petrács, Kővágó from Sept-Nov. 2013 - the careful selection and harvesting of ripe, botrytized grapes, primarily Furmint and Hárslevelű varieties. These grapes are left on the vine to develop noble rot, which concentrates their sugars and flavours.

Winemaking

The term "6 puttonyos" indicates that six baskets of botrytized grapes are used per barrel of must. The berries are picked individually, one by one, and the number of baskets is a measure of the wine's sweetness. The selected grapes were gently crushed and added to a base wine (dry Furmint from the same vintage). The mixture macerates, allowing the dried, botrytized grapes to impart their flavours, sugars, and complexity to the base wine. The blended must underwent slow fermentation and then was aged in oak barrels for 24 months, in cellars with controlled humidity and temperature.

Tasting Note

A blend of Furmint, Hárslevelű and Sárgamuskotály (Yellow Muscat), this wine exhibits a brilliant, deep golden hue with amber reflections, showcasing its maturity and richness. The aroma is captivating, offering a complex bouquet of dried apricots, honeyed citrus peel, orange blossom, and hints of exotic spices. There are also delicate notes of caramelized sugar and dried fruits like figs and raisins, contributing to its opulent and inviting scent. On the palate, this wonderful botrytised wine is a harmonious blend of luscious sweetness from the 208 g/l of residual sugar and vibrant acidity. The initial taste is dominated by ripe apricots and honey, which is beautifully balanced by the wine's acidity, preventing it from becoming cloying. Layers of flavours unfold, including candied orange peel, marmalade, and subtle hints of vanilla and baking spices. The wine's texture is luxurious and velvety, with a long and persistent finish that leaves a lingering impression of honeyed sweetness and nuanced fruitiness.

Food Matching

This luscious wine complements blue cheese and the sweetest of desserts beautifully!

Awards

James Suckling 96 Points
Here's a stunning example of the great 2013 vintage in Tokaj. Yes, the wine has concentrated candied orange and dried mango character on the lush medium to full-bodied palate, but it also has extremely elegant acidity that makes this move gracefully over the palate and off into the distance. Lovely candied orange and crème brulee character at the very long and delicately honied finish. Drink or hold. 96 Points, JS, March 2024.