Domaine Berthet-Bondet, Côtes du Jura Tradition, Jura, France, 2021

Producer Profile

Jean Berthet-Bondet has been working his land since 1984. With modest 15ha of 30-year-old vines, the estate may be small but is steeped in history and heritage.

Half of Jean’s land is in the Château Chalon appellation – home to the Savagnin grape, renowned for making the revered Vin Jaune. Exclusive to the Jura, this wine is harvested late and then aged in barrel for over six years. During this time a voile, or layer of yeast, forms on top of the wine, endowing it with a distinctive flavour of walnuts, hazelnuts and green almonds. A unique wine that has seen a resurgence of popularity in recent years, Vin Jaune has always been appreciated by the knowledgeable few.

The vineyards are located on steep limestone and marl slopes typical of the Jura, with soils such as blue and grey marl contributing structure, minerality and ageing potential. The estate has been farmed organically since the early 1990s and certified since around 2010–2013, with a strong emphasis on soil health, biodiversity and low yields. Manual harvesting is standard, and a mix of traditional Jura varieties is cultivated, including Savagnin and Chardonnay for whites, alongside Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir for reds.

Winemaking

The grapes are manually harvested, and the destemmed grapes are pressed and fermented in stainless steel tank. Aged for at least 2 years in old oak barrels under a layer of yeast which allows an oxidative process as the barrels are not topped up.

Tasting Note

This is a powerful, rich and complex wine with a nose of ripe apple, dried fruits and walnut. The palate is quite plump and fatty, yet and is supported by ample acidity. The long finish is remarkably nutty.

Food matching

Smoked fish, dishes garnished with garlic and parsley, white meat with a creamy sauce and mushrooms, spicy food (curry) and dishes cooked with cheese (Comté).