Domaine Hubert Lamy, Santenay Rouge, Clos Les Hâtes, Burgundy, France, 2021

Producer Profile

Olivier Lamy is one of the brightest stars in the Côte de Beaune, following in the footsteps of his father Hubert Lamy when he joined the family domaine in 1995.

Sadly, Hubert passed away in October 2022 and will be sorely missed. The fine quality of his wines has significantly enhanced the standing of Saint Aubin, which can now be mentioned in the same breath as the more celebrated neighbouring appellations of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. His signature racy styling, with great acidity and length, remains to the fore and his wines always punch well above their weight. They age well, too, due to their fine balance. The reds offer deep, ripe yet well-manicured tannins with good bright, fresh red fruit character alongside.

Viticulture

This vineyard is bordered by the 1er cru Passetemps, soils are deep clay with a limestone topsoil. The vines are planted on low‑vigour riparia rootstock and come from low‑yielding massal selections. They are pruned in a mix of cordon de Royat, Guyot and gobelet, with green pruning carried out in May. No fertiliser has been used for a decade, though organic compost is added when required. High trellising at 1.4 metres increases leaf area and improves bunch aeration. The entire estate is managed according to lutte raisonnée, using only minimal doses of natural products such as sulphur or copper, and treating solely when necessary and in ways that respect local fauna. The soils are ploughed around four times a year.

Winemaking

Manual harvesting is done in bins or small crates, with careful sorting before fermentation. About 30% of the grapes are destemmed and 70% kept as whole bunches. Fermentation and maceration run for around 20 days, with twice‑daily punch‑downs and pump‑overs and no chaptalisation. The wines age in Vosges and Allier barrels—20% new, the rest one‑ and two‑year‑old—so the oak never dominates. In the estate’s cold cellar, development is slow, with malolactic fermentation in barrel.

Tasting Note

This clearly expressed Pinot Noir reveals red berry fruit complemented by a subtle smoky graphite aromas. It’s precise, mineral-driven, and well-defined.

Food matching

Foie gras ravioli or Boeuf bourguignon.