Il Borghetto, Bilaccio IGP, Tuscany, Italy, 2018
The Azienda Agricola Il Borghetto do things differently in this most well-known and prestigious of Italian wine regions.
Led by owner and winemaker Antonio Cavallino, there is a determination to show the potential of the region. As a result he is at odds with the Consorzio of Chianti Classico over his methods and approach, with incredible results which shows that a little rebellion often pays off. With only a third of the 30ha estate under vine producing less than 1600 cases a year they are a small, but a bright thread in Chianti’s tapestry.
All the daily operations are keenly overseen by the owner, Antonio Cavallini with the help of long-term collaborator Tim Manning, a British oenologist who has worked extensively with Pinot Noir in New Zealand and above all, in Oregon. There are about twenty or so small blocks of Vineyard at Il Borghetto, each differing slightly from the other, be it in grape variety or clone, or a difference in soil type and slope aspect. They treat each one as a separate entity so that their individual characters can contribute a particular something to the final blend. The Vineyard and winery were Certified organic from 2018 although the winery has been run organically since 2008. Biodynamic practices, but without certification, as yet. Minimal tilling; covercrop and manure as fertiliser. Vines trained cordon-spur.
Bilaccio is a barrel selection of the best Sangiovese made after the wine has aged for at least 14 months. Harvest by hand. Each block is fermented, pressed, racked and aged separately. Use of whole cluster up to 40%. Natural yeast. Hand plunged; no pump-overs. Long fermentation maceration - on average 40 days. Free-run and pressings kept together. Wines racked and barrelled down with minimal settling. No racking during ageing.
16 to 20 Months
Type: French 228L Barrels
% wine oaked: 100
% new oak: None
100% Sangiovese, this is a seductive wine. Sweet tobacco, dried herb, mint and dried red cherry notes are all laced together in this decidedly savoury wine. Delicate and lithe on the palate, open-knit and gracious, Bilaccio is a good example of Il Borgetto's distinctive house style.
Delightful with all the usual Tuscan dishes such as Bistecca alla Fiorentina, Arrista, but more generally with stewed red and game meats.
6 x 75cl