Domaine Hubert Lamy, St Aubin Blanc, La Princée, Burgundy, France, 2023

Producer Profile

Olivier Lamy is one of the brightest stars in the Côte de Beaune, following in the footsteps of his father Hubert Lamy when he joined the family domaine in 1995.

Sadly, Hubert passed away in October 2022 and will be sorely missed. The fine quality of his wines has significantly enhanced the standing of Saint Aubin, which can now be mentioned in the same breath as the more celebrated neighbouring appellations of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. His signature racy styling, with great acidity and length, remains to the fore and his wines always punch well above their weight. They age well, too, due to their fine balance. The reds offer deep, ripe yet well-manicured tannins with good bright, fresh red fruit character alongside.

Viticulture

Located near the prestigious Montrachet, the Saint-Aubin vineyard produces white wines of great elegance. Guyot Poussard pruning. Green pruning in May and August. High planting density. No fertiliser for 20 years, though organic compost-based amendments are applied. Low yields. High trellising (1.5 metres) to increase leaf surface area. The entire domaine is treated with low doses of natural products such as sulphur or copper, or according to sustainable viticulture principles (treatments respectful of existing fauna and applied only when necessary). The soil is ploughed around three times per year.

Winemaking

Manual harvest in bins or small crates. Grapes pressed very gently using a pneumatic press. No settling. Reasoned chaptalisation if required. Fermentation in 350-litre barrels and 600-litre demi-muids (Vosges, Allier and Tronçais oak, 0% new; barrels aged 2–10 years). Temperature control in barrel. Very long fermentation: 90 days. No bâtonnage.

Tasting Note

Yellow-green colour. A fine, subtle nose opening with mineral aromas lifted by fresh citrus and floral notes. A palate of great class with a mineral texture. Remarkable balance. A long, mineral finish of exceptional finesse

Food matching

Fresh goat cheese salad with herbs and a drizzle of olive oil, pan-seared sea bass with a citrus salsa.