Thistledown, The Distant Light Shiraz-Grenache, Mclaren Vale & Barossa, Australia, 2021

Producer Profile

Thistledown was founded by Master of Wine, Giles Cooke who had a vision for a more elegant, textural interpretation of Australian wine.

Initial explorations resulted in access to many of the best vineyards, many of which were the previously unloved Old Vine Grenache. Incredible, historic fruit sources coupled with Giles’ increasingly adept efforts has quickly resulted in a reputation for being amongst the best in the country. Narrating the stories of these wines to an increasingly attentive global audience is Giles’ heartfelt commitment and mission.

Viticulture

A detailed, complex tapestry of vineyards comprising young and old, trellised and bush-vine, their common thread being vibrant, energetic fruit that is concentrated but balanced. The Grenache comes from Sue Trott’s Home Block in Blewitt Springs and Bernard Smart’s vineyard in Clarendon. The former bush vine on sand and the latter bush vine of clay loams with quartz and ironstone. The Shiraz components come from Joel Mattschoss’ Shiraz on Mengler’s Hill and 2 blocks of Andy Kalleske’s blocks in Koonunga/Ebenezer. All are trellised, 2 spur pruned, Joel’s cane pruned.

Winemaking

Though the winemaking was hugely detailed, the aim was to create something seamless. All fruit was hand-picked and wild fermented with varying percentage of whole bunch and a generally gentle extraction process. Ageing in a mix of concrete and larger French oak. No fining or filtration.

Tasting Note

An intoxicating, ethereal nose of sweet, spicy black cherry, cassis and balsam. The palate unravels its silky, textural beauty over the palate. Draped with wild strawberry, north African spice, autumnal wood smoke and hints of smoky, grilled meats, it displays an elegant persistence.

Food Matching

Turkey, rich tomato based pasta sauce, and maybe even a slow braised lamb ragu.

Awards

James Suckling 94 Points
A neighbourly blend from the continental extremities of Barossa, to the maritime freshness of McLaren Vale. It works well, too. Umami-laden aromas of beef dripping, porcini, Japanese daikon and bouillon. Mulled cherry, tea tree, clove and white pepper. The finish, taut and nicely racy. There seems to be ample stuffing behind the immediate veneer of tannin, suggesting that this full-weighted, albeit, elegant wine, has loads in store for those with patience. Drinkable now with an aggressive decant, but best after 2027. 94 Points, JS, Nov 2023.