Thistledown, Suilven Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia, 2024

Producer Profile

Thistledown was founded by Master of Wine, Giles Cooke who had a vision for a more elegant, textural interpretation of Australian wine.

Initial explorations resulted in access to many of the best vineyards, many of which were the previously unloved Old Vine Grenache. Incredible, historic fruit sources coupled with Giles’ increasingly adept efforts has quickly resulted in a reputation for being amongst the best in the country. Narrating the stories of these wines to an increasingly attentive global audience is Giles’ heartfelt commitment and mission.

Viticulture

The Adelaide Hills, with their lush rolling landscapes, steep slopes, and diverse microclimates, are unquestionably a premier region for world-class Chardonnay—delivering complexity, intensity, and elegance in equal measure. Among its sub-regions, Piccadilly stands out as one of the highest and coolest, now firmly associated with the finest fruit. Like the majestic Suilven mountain on the label, this wine represents the pinnacle of Thistledown's white winemaking.

Winemaking

Fruit was transferred straight to press before a very slight settling of juice which retained a high solids content. A combination 1 & 2 year old French oak hogsheads and concrete eggs were filled and they waited for the natural fermentation to begin - which it did at quite a rate! The finished wine was held in barrel and egg, with regular battonage, for 10 months before bottling with only a very light fining and filtration.

Tasting Note

The first vintage using fruit from a certified organic vineyard. With such perfect raw materials, their only job was not to undo all nature's good work. Fruit, hand-picked in the cool of the morning on 7th March. Bright and refreshing, this white opens with delicate white fruits, a touch of spice, and a whisper of oak on the nose. The palate is lively and expressive, with zesty acidity, juicy peach and stone fruits, and a subtle mineral edge that adds elegance and texture.

Food Matching

A really versatile Chardonnay that pairs well with so many foods but our favourites would include rich fish dishes with buttery sauces, steak bearnaise and grilled veal.

Awards

Halliday Wine Companion 96 Points and Special Value
Back after a couple of years' hiatus, this is now bottled under screw cap. Fermented wild in seasoned oak, with a portion in ceramic egg. Refinement is king here, with classic chardonnay winemaking present, but quietly so; the fruit elegant, taut, but not lacking for intensity, suspended on a line of vigorous, ripe acidity and a chalky structural pithiness. White stone fruit, crisp golden apple and Lisbon lemon. Plus, a little spice with faint notes of ground ginger, clove and allspice. There’s an appealing savouriness to this, a confident quietude of making. It’s excellent, and it has the bones to age. 96 Points and Special Value, ME, August 2025.