Il Borghetto, Montedesassi, IGP, Tuscany, Italy, 2020

Producer Profile

The Azienda Agricola Il Borghetto do things differently in this most well-known and prestigious of Italian wine regions.

Led by owner and maverick winemaker Antonio Cavallino, its determination to make the best wines possible has occasionally placed it at odds with the Consorzio of Chianti Classico, who lay down strict rules about what can and can’t be done. However, incredible results prove that a little rebellion pays off once in a while: with only a third of the estate’s 30ha under vine at any one time and an annual production of just 1,600 cases a year, Il Borghetto is a small but bright thread in Chianti’s complex tapestry of wines.

Viticulture

All the daily operations are keenly overseen by the owner, Antonio Cavallini with the help of long-term collaborator Tim Manning, a British oenologist who has worked extensively with Pinot Noir in New Zealand and above all, in Oregon. There are about twenty or so small blocks of Vineyard at Il Borghetto, each differing slightly from the other, be it in grape variety or clone, or a difference in soil type and slope aspect. They treat each one as a separate entity so that their individual characters can contribute a particular something to the final blend. Vineyard and winery Certified organic from 2018 although the winery has been run organically since 2008. Biodynamic practices, but without certification, as yet. Minimal tilling; covercrop and manure as fertiliser. Vines trained cordon-spur.

Winemaking

Harvest by hand. Each block is fermented, pressed, racked and aged separately. Use of whole clusters. Natural yeast. Hand plunged; no pump-overs. Long fermentation maceration - on average 40 days. Free-run and pressings kept together. Wines racked and barrelled down with minimal settling. No racking during ageing.

Tasting Note

This is the more powerful wine of Il Borghetto's two pure Sangioveses. Sinewy, muscular tannins give the Montedesassi considerable punch and drive. Like all of these wines, the Montedesassi is quite perfumed and savoury in style.

Food Matching

Traditional Bruschette, Bucatino all Matriciana.

Awards