DOMAINE DES BAUMARD, France

In a deeply traditional region, his early adoption of screwcaps and different vine trellising systems marked him out as the enfant terrible of Savennières. His mantra now encompasses a belief in the individuality of each vintage, believing it should be made with minimal intervention to allow the wine to reflect its unique provenance. His Savennières from the famous vineyards of Clos St Yves and Clos du Papillon are rich, yet with unrivalled balance and elegance, while his top cuvée, ‘Trie Speciale’, is only made in very exceptional vintages when the grape quality is optimal; it is a wine full of paradox – honeyed yet dry, rounded yet firm, with the rich fruit, tremendous weight and concentration ensuring a thoroughly memorable experience.

Viticulture

The Baumard approach to viticulture is a notable one, and it does make it easy to spot the Baumard vines in any given appellation. They are trained in a fashion Baumard describe as vignes hautes et larges (sometimes abbreviated to VHL); the larges refers to the distance between the vines, a remarkable 3 metres between the rows and 0.8 metres between each vine, whereas the hautes refers to the high trellising system employed, taking the vines to a height of more than 2 metres, the object being to obtain a large surface area of foliage. During the vegetative period, they see limited leaf-thinning along their base, but otherwise there is little intervention currently, not even topping-off of the upper shoots as they reach for the sky above. Between the rows, the soil is alternatively ploughed and grassed over, a methodology the Baumards have been following for well over 40 years. The harvest is manual, and the fruit is transported in small plastic cages to minimise damage.

Winemaking

In the winery, handling is gentle and oxygen is tightly controlled, supporting the estate’s hallmark clarity and longevity. Many wines mature on fine lees in tank, gaining subtle depth without added weight. For their renowned sweet wines, extended ageing before bottling encourages harmony and concentration, resulting in a style that is both refined and unmistakably Baumard.